Visiting Wat Mangkon: What to Know About Bangkok's Main Chinese Temple
I visited Wat Mangkon in Chinatown to pray in the New Year. Here's what the temple is like, the Tai Sui ritual, and whether it's worth it.
Intro
Tucked away in the Yaowarat area, Wat Mangkon Kamalawat (formerly known as Wat Leng Noei Yi) is not just a temple; it’s a portal into the rich tapestry of Thai-Chinese culture.
Revered by many, this Buddhist temple in Bangkok is especially known for honoring the God of Fortune,’ along with the four guardian deities and a host of other Chinese gods.
For me, this visit was a new experience. Despite having visited Yaowarat countless times for its food, I’d never set foot in Wat Mangkon Kamalawat This time, my wife wanted to visit the temple to pray for her career, so we made a special trip down.
A Glimpse into History
Originally named Wat Leng Koei Yi, this temple was founded in 1871 before being renamed Wat Mangkon Kamalawat.
The word “Mangkon” translates to “dragon” in Thai, making the temple’s full name mean “Dragon Lotus Temple.”
The current name was bestowed upon it by King Rama V, a nod to its dragon motifs and symbolic connection to strength and prosperity.
How to get to Wat Mangkon
By MRT
The temple is conveniently located near Wat Mangkon MRT station on the Blue Line.
If you’re staying in areas like Siam or Asok, take the BTS Green Line to Sala Daeng BTS station, transfer to the Silom MRT station (5 min walk), and ride three stops to Wat Mangkon MRT station. The journey takes about 20–30 minutes.
From the station, it’s just a short 3-minute walk straight along the road.
By Taxi, Grab, or Bolt
If you prefer a taxi or ride-share service like Grab or Bolt, you can expect a 12-15 minute journey from central areas like Siam, depending on traffic. It’s only 3.5 km away, but Bangkok traffic can be unpredictable.
Fares are reasonable: 80–100 THB for a taxi or 120 THB via Bolt.
When to Visit & Festival Times
Best Time to Visit
Early morning (8-10am) is ideal if you want a quieter experience. The temple fills up as the day progresses, especially on weekends.
Plan to spend 30-45 mins here if you're exploring the temple thoroughly. Could be longer if you're doing fortune-telling or combining it with the Yaowarat food tour.
Festival Times (When It Gets Packed)
The temple transforms during major Chinese festivals:
Chinese New Year (late Jan to mid-Feb, dates vary on lunar calendar):
- This is when Wat Mangkon becomes the absolute center of festivities in Bangkok's Chinatown
- The first 7-9 days after CNY are particularly significant
- People pray based on their Chinese zodiac signs to ward off bad luck or enhance good fortune
- Expect massive crowds, lion dances, and OVERWHELMING incense smoke
- Worth experiencing once for the atmosphere, but be prepared for shoulder-to-shoulder crowds
Vegetarian Festival (September-October):
- Annual 9-day Buddhist event where participants eat vegetarian food
- Temple is very active with special ceremonies
- More manageable crowd-wise than Chinese New Year
Lantern Festival:
- Held on the 15th day of the first lunar month
- Beautiful lantern displays
- Moderate crowds
If you want to see the temple at its most atmospheric, come during Chinese New Year. If you want to actually explore and take photos peacefully, avoid these festivals entirely.
Highlights of Wat Mangkon
Architectural style & Atmosphere
When I visited, part of the temple was under construction, which was a bit of a letdown considering the temple's stunning architecture.
Wat Mangkon is built in the Southern Chinese architectural style, which is immediately obvious if you've visited other Bangkok temples, which are in Thai style.
What makes it distinctly Chinese:
- Green-glazed tiles on the roofs - this is classic Southern Chinese design
- Curved, sweeping eaves - believed to ward off evil spirits according to Chinese feng shui principles
- Low, wide buildings rather than tall Thai stupas - creates a more open, peaceful courtyard atmosphere
- Red and gold color scheme throughout - red symbolizes good fortune and protection, gold represents wealth
The dragons you see everywhere aren't just decoration. In Chinese culture, dragons represent strength, power, and good fortune - hence the temple's name "Dragon Lotus Temple" (Mangkon Kamalawat).
The main prayer hall is particularly interesting because it houses a Buddha image that's a fusion of Thai and Chinese styles. You can see elements of both artistic traditions in the same statue.
I was surprised by how different it felt from Thai temples I'd visited. Even though it's in Bangkok, stepping inside felt like entering a completely different cultural space.
Wat Mangkon Kamalawat temple is particularly tourist-friendly, with numerous English signs that share the temple's history and guide visitors through its various areas.
Despite being a popular spot, it didn’t feel crowded, and visiting in the morning made it even more peaceful.
Key Features to Look Out For
- Tai Sui Deity Offering: A unique ritual involves paying homage to the Tai Sui deity. Follow the arrows to the shrine, where you’ll brush a paper slip 12 times over your body before placing it in the designated area.
- Festivals: The temple is busiest during Chinese New Year, when devotees pray based on their Chinese zodiac signs to ward off bad luck or enhance good fortune. The first 7–9 days after Chinese New Year are particularly significant.
The ambiance within the temple is surprisingly tranquil.
It was refreshing to step inside and find a cool, comfortable space, especially since we arrived in the morning when fewer people were around. The temple prohibits the lighting of incense or candles indoors, which keeps the air clear and pleasant.
The Deities You'll Encounter
Unlike Thai Buddhist temples that focus primarily on Buddha images, Wat Mangkon houses an interesting mix of Buddhist, Taoist, and Confucian deities. This really showcases the diverse religious practices of Bangkok's Chinese community.
Main Deities:
- Guan Yin (Goddess of Mercy): You'll recognize her by the peaceful expression and often holding a vase or willow branch. Many people pray to her for compassion and help with personal struggles.
- Cai Shen (God of Fortune): A major reason people visit, especially before Chinese New Year. Devotees pray for wealth and prosperity.
- The Four Guardian Deities (Chatulokkaban): The large warrior-costumed statues flanking the main entrance - two on each side. They're believed to protect the temple and worshippers from evil.
At the Rear:
There are three pavilions dedicated to different figures:
- Guan Yin's shrine
- Phra Archan Chin Wang Samathiwat (the temple's founder)
- Lak Chao (a revered saint)
What I found interesting was watching how different people approached different shrines based on what they were praying for. It's not just one quick prayer and out, but people spend time moving between the various deities with specific intentions.
Fortune Telling at Wat Mangkon
One of the most interesting things I observed during my visit was the fortune telling ritual called Kau Cim (also known as 求籤 (Qiu Qian) in Chinese or Lottery Poetry in English).
I kept hearing this clacking sound throughout the temple and couldn't figure out what it was. Turns out, it's from people shaking bamboo cylinders filled with numbered sticks.
Here's how it works: you kneel at an altar with a specific question - career, relationships, health, whatever's on your mind. Shake the bamboo tube until one stick falls out. The stick has a number, and that number corresponds to a fortune paper in the drawers behind the altar.
I watched an elderly woman do this, and she seemed very focused. This wasn't casual fortune-telling, it looked serious. The temple volunteer helped her interpret the classical Chinese poetry on the paper. Dating back to the 12th century, it's apparently one of the oldest fortune-telling methods still practiced.
I didn't try it myself (wasn't sure what to ask), but it's fascinating to watch if you're interested.
Things to Do
Perform Rituals and Offerings
If you’re resolving bad luck, buy a merit slip (Por Ung) for 200 THB at a separate building. Write your name, surname, and birthdate before following the rituals.
Take Photos
For photography enthusiasts, Mangkon Kamalawat temple is a dream. I was able to snap away with my Sony A6000 without any issues, as long as I respected the space of those in prayer. The unique architecture and the myriad deities provide countless opportunities for photographs.
Explore the Area
No visit to the Mangkon Kamalawat temple is complete without exploring Yaowarat. The temple is perfectly positioned as a starting point.
- Food Spots: Try Nai Ek Roll Noodles or Yaowarat Toasted Buns.
- Chinatown Gate: A symbol of the area’s rich heritage.
Food Spots Near the Temple:
- Nai Ek Roll Noodles: Famous rolled rice noodles with pork
- Yaowarat Toasted Buns: This is asian style buns or dinner rolls with thai-style custards stuffed in it
- Khao Gaeng Jek Pui (near the temple on Mangkon Road): 80+ year-old curry rice shop, open 2-7:3pm
- Vintage Rocket Soft Drinks: Behind the temple on Mangkhon Road, Tiktok-famous & instagram-worthy retro sodas
Cultural Attractions Nearby:
- Leng Buai Ia Shrine: Another important Chinese shrine
- Sampeng Lane Market: Wholesale market with everything from fabric to toys
- Talat Noi: Old neighborhood with heritage shophouses and street art - very hipster.
The Chinatown Gate: Walking distance, makes for a nice photo stop
I'd recommend spending half a day in this area. Temple in the morning, then food hunting through Yaowarat in the afternoon/evening when the street food scenes comes alive.
Some shots of Yaowarat on a rainy afternoon.
Tips for Visitors & Practical Information
- Dress Code: While not strict, it’s respectful to wear clothing that covers your shoulders and knees.
- Timing: Visit in the morning for a quieter experience.
What to Bring:
- Cash in small THB notes (for incense, offerings, or fortune-telling)
- Water bottle (temple area and Chinatown can get hot)
- Modest clothing or light cover-up (shoulders and knees covered)
- Wet wipes (useful after walking through busy Chinatown lanes)
Photography:
- Photography is allowed
- No flash photography
- Stay clear of people actively praying
- Tripods may be restricted in busy areas
Temple Etiquette:
- Remove shoes before entering shrine halls
- Speak quietly
- Don't point feet at Buddha images or people
- Ask before taking close-up photos of worshippers
Accessibility:
- Wheelchair accessible through main entrance
- Some courtyard areas may be challenging
- Step-free access to main halls
Overall Thoughts
Is Wat Mangkon Kamalawat temple worth visiting? I would recommend experiencing the temple for its unique vibe.
It’s a popular destination without the overwhelming crowds often found at tourist hotspots. The abundance of informative signs ensures that newcomers can navigate the rituals with ease.
Have you been to Wat Mangkon (Wat Leng Noei Yi) or any other gems in Yaowarat? Share your experiences in the comments—let's swap stories!
JJ Huang
